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CLICK
HERE TO FIND OUT WHY IT IS IN YOUR BEST INTEREST
TO PAY A LITTLE MORE FOR YOUR LAB PUP.
Something
few people think about.
With
the ever popular Lab being worth a good dollar,
the inevitable negatives have also cropped
up. Unscrupulous breeders who, to make a
quick dollar, breed anything labeled as a purebred
Labrador Retriever in order to get puppies to
sell, especially if they will give a certain
sought after color.
The most obvious thing to watch for, which we try
to educate people about on this site is genetic
health problems but there is something else to
consider if you are buying from a 'less than
reputable' breeder and it can even happen with
reputable breeders: All puppies are cute (or
a very high percentage), but not all cute puppies
turn into good looking dogs. This can be
easily proven by looking at your neighbors mongrel
that got bred by the three neighborhood gigalos.
The little female had 8 of the most darling
puppies you ever saw. By the time they were
8 weeks old they were irresistible, oh so cute,
but then what happened when those INCREDIBLY cute
puppies turned into dogs. YUCK! What
an ugly dog. Oh sure, the owners tried to
talk themselves into the thinking they had a nice
looking dog, or they try to make up for it with -
"Rover may not be the nicest looking dog but
look at all the tricks he can
do."
But the bottom line is all puppies are cute - especially
Lab puppies,
but that doesn't mean they will grow into
good looking dogs.
How do you know if the puppy you purchase will
turn into a good looking dog?
You're second best defense is genetics. If
the mother and father are both good looking dogs
there's a good chance the pups will be too, though
this doesn't necessarily secure it for
you. Your absolute best defense is to
see other pups with the same genetic line full
grown into adult dogs. Ask the prospective
breeder if they have a track record with these
pups, ask for pictures of previous litters from
the female or male if they are available and make
sure that this dog is going to look like you want
it to look. What's the use of owning a
"chocolate" if it turns out to be an
ugly dog or searching for a "black" if
it's legs are too long or it is to long in the
back? You've likely paid a lot of money, but that
doesn't guarantee a nice looking dog. The
puppy stage is very short, it is almost impossible
to tell what a pup will look like as a dog at this
age, and then you're stuck with the dog for the
rest of it's life.
Breeding for color only is very prevalent in the
horse industry as well. Certain colors
become "hot" and then you find people
breeding specifically for color so they can sell
their colts. What you see is some of the
UGLIEST horses that are shades of the desired
colors. In the beginning undiscerning people
buy them because they are "the color"
they want, but then when the market is glutted
with a bunch of useless animals in various shades
and color patterns of that "hot"
color" consumers wise up and realize that
temperament wise, intelligence wise and health
wise they would have been better off with a
"plain sorrel".
At
what age should I get my puppy?
Getting a puppy at 6 weeks...
Breeders
keep puppies until they are at least 6 weeks to
ensure that pups have been in their litter long
enough to learn proper social skills as
dogs. The establishment of the pecking order
in the litter serves to teach puppies how to
behave as dogs later on in their lives.
Taking pups away to early is detrimental to their
ability to socialize as dogs properly.
Getting
a puppy at 7-10 weeks...
If you are waiting on a puppy from a reputable
breeder, this is a great age to pick up you new
puppy. You can expect a lot of work getting up at
night to get the puppy started on house and kennel
training.
Getting
a puppy at 10-36+ weeks...
This is a
wonderful age to pick up your new puppy if you
want to have a little less stress adapting to
having a puppy in your home - a good breeder will
have started the puppy on basic training commands
like sit, stay and come and if you're fortunate
they will even have started kennel training
them. Be wary of breeders who are willing to
"dump" puppies at this age just to get
rid of them. It is a clear sign that they
are only breeding the pups to make money and when
they've sold the first few for a high dollar they
sell others at what they consider an acceptable
loss just to get rid of them. This is an
indication of a breeder who may not be in business
for the long term, so any promises of health
guarantees or future help may be
shaky.
How to
select a breeder? Make sure you ask
questions.
Top 7 questions to ask?
1.
Ask if this is the breeders first litter. The
best defense against health problems is to 1. Get
a written health guarantee and 2. Buy from an
established breeder that has a good long record of
health-trouble-free pups. If this is
the breeders first litter or they have not been
breeding for very long the chances are high they
are breeding only to make quick money. Check
these breeders thoroughly before deciding to buy a
pup from them. Lab's are increasingly being
plagued with hereditary health issues, some life
threatening, it is important to make sure that you
buy from a reputable breeder who will back the
pups they sell in the long run.
2. Ask when
was the last time this female had pups.
If they've
had more than one litter less than 1 year apart,
and cannot give a reasonable explanation as to why
this dog was bred again, do
not buy from this breeder.
3. Ask to see copies of the Hip X-Ray
Certificates.
If they
haven't had the parents X-Rayed do not buy from
this breeder unless the breeder has an excellent
reputation for healthy pups and they can give you
a plausible explanation as to why the hips were
not done. Labrador's are big dogs and through
careless breeding are known to have inherited hip
problems that can cause young dogs to have to be
put down.
4. Ask if the registration is included.
It is
illegal to sell a pup as a purebred without
papers.
5. Ask if the pups come with a health guarantee.
With the
ever increasing number of backyard breeders
charging close to registered prices for their
pups, health problems such as Hip Dysplasia are
becoming more common. If you save $200 off
the price of a pup, but are left with a pup that
cannot walk after 1 year have you actually saved
any money?
6.
Ask if the
pups have had a vet check, been dewormed and have
been identified with either a tattoo or a
microchip.
Vets usually
provide a card with your pups health information
at it's 6 week check up. Your breeder should
provide you with this. Be wary of a breeder
who will not. Labs are also prime targets
for theft, be sure your pup is permanently
identified.
7. Try to
determine whether this breeding pair was mated
mainly to achieve a specific color.
With the
influx of chocolate, fox red, and silver puppy buyers in the Lab
market, be wary of breeders who are working hard
to provide specific colors. There are many
good chocolate Labs out there and it is worthwhile
doing your homework on pedigrees to determine that
your potential pup has good bloodlines running
through his pedigree and that he was not bred JUST
to get a profitable color.
Some
indicators of breeders that are taking shortcuts
are those that offer their pups or stud services
at a price lower than the current established
rates. Be wary of any breeder offering to sell you
an unregistered pup for a cheaper price.
This is not only illegal, but limits you're
protection that you are indeed getting a purebred
pup. In 2009 a quality bred lab pup should
be priced at $800 and up. Breeding services
are usually established by the price of a pup.
How
to select a puppy.
Selecting
the pup is usually pretty easy for you.
Make a list of the things you would like to see in
your pup:
eg.
A laid back temperament, or an aggressive
temperament.
A large dog, or a small dog.
A male or a female.
Tell
your breeder what you are planning to use the pup
for and then ask them which pup would best suit
you. Your breeder should know the pups
personalities after spending time with them
everyday and is far better suited to match you
with a puppy, than the likely hood that you would
be able to pick out a pup in a few minutes of
watching them.
It's
that easy.
Male
Vs. Female
It
is a misconception that females make better pets
than males or vice versa. All puppies are
individuals and all puppies can be difficult or
easy to get along with depending on their
breeding.
Advantages of the female: Smaller, so
if you do a lot of traveling with limited space
they are easier to cart around.
Advantages of the male: Are often nicer
looking than the females, are usually bigger, if
you are looking for a big dog. Are usually
more fun loving and happy go lucky in
nature. Are often more silly and comical in
nature. When neutered are the ideal stable,
loving, people oriented family member or
companion.
Naming
your puppy: Here
are some ideas for your new pup.
A:
Abby, Abe, Ace, Ada, Akela, Akia, Akira,
Akya, Alex, Alonzo, Alf,
Amber, Amigo, Amos,
Andy, Angel, Arrow, Ashley, Azura
B:
Babe, Baron, Bailey, Bambi
Baxter, Bear, Bella,
Benson, Bentley, BigBoy, Bingo,
Bravo, Brice, Brie, Brier, Bubbles, Buddy,
Bunny
Bull, Buster
C:
Cadence, Cady, Cala,
Cameo, Candy, Captain,
Cara, Carlin, Carmel,
Casia, Cassidy, Cato,
Cerise, Chanel, Charis,
Champ, Chelsea, Cleo
Cora, Coal,
D:
Daisy, Dakota, Dalia
Dante, Daphne, Daron,
Daytona,
Dee, Della, Delta, Deva
Dexter, Domino, Dora
Doria, Drake, Drew,
Droopy, Duchess,
Duke, Durango, Dusty
E:
Ebony, Echo, Eddy,
Edgar, Effie, Einstein,
Electra, Eliora, Elysia
Emiline, Eskimo,
Espresso, Eureka, Ewok
F:
Faith, Fajita, Falcon
Fang, Farley, Farnham
Felix, Ferdinand, Fido
Fifi, Figaro, Finnegan
Fiona, Fletch, Flopsy, Foxy
Frankie, Freckles
Fred, Freddy, Friday, Frito, Fritzi
G:
Garfield, Gatsby,
Georgie, Gigi, Ginger
Giselle, Gitta, Golda,
Goldie, Goober, Goose
Grace, Gumbo
H:
Halley, Hamlet, Hana
Hannah, Happy, Harpo
Hardy, Hayley, Hershey, Hobo, Holly
Homer, Honey, Hooch
Hope
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I:
Iceman, Igloo, Igor
Indie, Indigo, Inez, Inky
Iris, Isa, Ivory, Ivy
J:
Jacinda, Jackie, Jade
Jaffa, Jag, Jamila,
Jasmine, Jasper, Java
Jazzy, Jeeter, Jelina
Jello, Jelly Bean, Jenni
Jethro, Jesse, Jessie, Jette, Jewel
Jill, Joby, Joker, Joy
June, Juni, Junior
Juno
K:
Kadenza, Kaiser, Kala
Kalliope, Kallista,
Kamilah, Kamilla, Kara
Karima, Kasmira, Kelia, Kendra, Kerensa,
Kezia, Kiana, Kiki, Kineta
Kitty, Kiwi, Kizzi
Kobi, Koko, Kosmo
Kyra
L:
Lacey, Ladonna, Lady
Laila, Lakeisha, Lallie
Lana, Lane, Lani, Lassie, Lee, Leeza
Leo, Lex, Link,
Linus, Lizzie, Lotus
Lucky
M:
Mack, Maggie, Marina, Maris
Marmaduke, Marvin, Mattie, Marty
Matisse, Max, Maud
Mel, Mia, Milo, Mitch, Mindy, Misha, Missy, Misty
Mitsy, Moby
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N:
Ned, Neon, Nellie, Nessie, Newton, Niko,
Ninja, Nita, Nitro, Noodle, Novia, Nugget,
Nyx
O:
Odie, Oliana, Oliver, Onyx, Oreo, Oscar,
Otis
Ozzie
P:
Pablo, Page, Palmer, Pansy, Paris, Parker,
Parson, Pascal, Paxton, Peaches, Peanut,
Pebbles, Penny, Perkins
Peyton, Picaso, Pickles,
Pierce, Piper, Pookie
Poquito, Precious, Presley, Primo, Prince
Princess, Proctor, Puck
Q:
Quicksilver, Quigley, Quincy
R:
Radley, Rafael, Ragdoll
Ragnar, Raider, Raisin,
Ranger, Raskal, Ravi
Rebel, Renegade, Rex
Rio, Ringo, Ripley
Rocky, Rowdy, Ruby, Rudy
S:
Saber, Sammy, Scamper
Scarlet, Scoobie, Scrappy
Shilo, Shogun, Sidney
Skipper, Skippy, Skittles
Sonny, Sparky, Spike
Spuds, Squirt, Sugar
T:
Tank, Tango, Tara, Tarzan, Tatoo, Tess, Thumper,
Tia, Tonto, Toro, Trooper
Tulip, Turbo, Twinkie
Ty
V: Vandy
W: Woody, Wiley, Worm,
Wrecker, Wuss, Wilber
Y: Yappy, Yousa
Z: Zeke, Zip, Zipper, Zippy, Zorro |
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