RED DOG TACK SHOP   |   HORSES   |    CKC LABS   |   TRI R BEEF   |   RED DOG RANCH



Meet Our Dogs

What you get in a
RED DOG RANCH
Lab Puppy Package

A Puppy as a Gift

Puppies for Sale

Dogs For Sale

Common Lab Questions

Stud Service

Dog Tack Sales

Picture Gallery

Happy Homes

Contact Us

GENETIC PROBLEMS & WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THE BREED

CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT WHY IT IS IN YOUR BEST INTEREST TO PAY A LITTLE MORE FOR YOUR LAB PUP.
Something few people think about.

With the ever popular Lab being worth a good dollar, the inevitable negatives have also cropped up.  Unscrupulous breeders who, to make a quick dollar, breed anything labeled as a purebred Labrador Retriever in order to get puppies to sell, especially if they will give a certain sought after color.
The most obvious thing to watch for, which we try to educate people about on this site is genetic health problems but there is something else to consider if you are buying from a 'less than reputable' breeder and it can even happen with reputable breeders:  All puppies are cute (or a very high percentage), but not all cute puppies turn into good looking dogs.  This can be easily proven by looking at your neighbors mongrel that got bred by the three neighborhood gigalos.   The little female had 8 of the most darling puppies you ever saw.  By the time they were 8 weeks old they were irresistible, oh so cute, but then what happened when those INCREDIBLY cute puppies turned into dogs.  YUCK!  What an ugly dog.  Oh sure, the owners tried to talk themselves into the thinking they had a nice looking dog, or they try to make up for it with - "Rover may not be the nicest looking dog but look at all the tricks he can do."  
But the bottom line is all puppies are cute - especially Lab puppies,
 but that doesn't mean they will grow into good looking dogs. 
 
How do you know if the puppy you purchase will turn into a good looking dog?
You're second best defense is genetics.  If the mother and father are both good looking dogs there's a good chance the pups will be too, though this doesn't necessarily secure it for you.   Your absolute best defense is to see other pups with the same genetic line full grown into adult dogs.  Ask the prospective breeder if they have a track record with these pups, ask for pictures of previous litters from the female or male if they are available and make sure that this dog is going to look like you want it to look.  What's the use of owning a "chocolate" if it turns out to be an ugly dog or searching for a "black" if it's legs are too long or it is to long in the back? You've likely paid a lot of money, but that doesn't guarantee a nice looking dog.  The puppy stage is very short, it is almost impossible to tell what a pup will look like as a dog at this age, and then you're stuck with the dog for the rest of it's life.  
Breeding for color only is very prevalent in the horse industry as well.  Certain colors become "hot" and then you find people breeding specifically for color so they can sell their colts.  What you see is some of the UGLIEST horses that are shades of the desired colors.  In the beginning undiscerning people buy them because they are "the color" they want, but then when the market is glutted with a bunch of useless animals in various shades and color patterns of that "hot" color" consumers wise up and realize that temperament wise, intelligence wise and health wise they would have been better off with a "plain sorrel". 

At what age should I get my puppy?


Getting a puppy at 6 weeks...
Breeders keep puppies until they are at least 6 weeks to ensure that pups have been in their litter long enough to learn proper social skills as dogs.  The establishment of the pecking order in the litter serves to teach puppies how to behave as dogs later on in their lives.  Taking pups away to early is detrimental to their ability to socialize as dogs properly.

Getting a puppy at 7-10 weeks...
If you are waiting on a puppy from a reputable breeder, this is a great age to pick up you new puppy. You can expect a lot of work getting up at night to get the puppy started on house and kennel training.

Getting a puppy at 10-36+ weeks...
This is a wonderful age to pick up your new puppy if you want to have a little less stress adapting to having a puppy in your home - a good breeder will have started the puppy on basic training commands like sit, stay and come and if you're fortunate they will even have started kennel training them.  Be wary of breeders who are willing to "dump" puppies at this age just to get rid of them.  It is a clear sign that they are only breeding the pups to make money and when they've sold the first few for a high dollar they sell others at what they consider an acceptable loss just to get rid of them.  This is an indication of a breeder who may not be in business for the long term, so any promises of health guarantees or future help may be shaky.  

How to select a breeder?  Make sure you ask questions.
Top 7 questions to ask?

1. Ask if this is the breeders first litter.  The best defense against health problems is to 1. Get a written health guarantee and 2. Buy from an established breeder that has a good long record of health-trouble-free pups.   If this is the breeders first litter or they have not been breeding for very long the chances are high they are breeding only to make quick money.  Check these breeders thoroughly before deciding to buy a pup from them.  Lab's are increasingly being plagued with hereditary health issues, some life threatening, it is important to make sure that you buy from a reputable breeder who will back the pups they sell in the long run.

2. Ask when was the last time this female had pups.
If they've had more than one litter less than 1 year apart, and cannot give a reasonable explanation as to why this dog was bred again, do not buy from this breeder.
3. 
Ask to see copies of the Hip X-Ray Certificates.
If they haven't had the parents X-Rayed do not buy from this breeder unless the breeder has an excellent reputation for healthy pups and they can give you a plausible explanation as to why the hips were not done.   Labrador's are big dogs and through careless breeding are known to have inherited hip problems that can cause young dogs to have to be put down.
4. Ask if the registration is included.
It is illegal to sell a pup as a purebred without papers.
5. Ask if the pups come with a health guarantee.
With the ever increasing number of backyard breeders charging close to registered prices for their pups, health problems such as Hip Dysplasia are becoming more common.  If you save $200 off the price of a pup, but are left with a pup that cannot walk after 1 year have you actually saved any money?
6.  Ask if the pups have had a vet check, been dewormed and have been identified with either a tattoo or a microchip.
Vets usually provide a card with your pups health information at it's 6 week check up.  Your breeder should provide you with this.  Be wary of a breeder who will not.  Labs are also prime targets for theft, be sure your pup is permanently identified.
7. Try to determine whether this breeding pair was mated mainly to achieve a specific color.
With the influx of chocolate, fox red, and silver puppy buyers in the Lab market, be wary of breeders who are working hard to provide specific colors.  There are many good chocolate Labs out there and it is worthwhile doing your homework on pedigrees to determine that your potential pup has good bloodlines running through his pedigree and that he was not bred JUST to get a profitable color.

Some indicators of breeders that are taking shortcuts are those that offer their pups or stud services at a price lower than the current established rates. Be wary of any breeder offering to sell you an unregistered pup for a cheaper price.  This is not only illegal, but limits you're protection that you are indeed getting a purebred pup.  In 2009 a quality bred lab pup should be priced at $800 and up.  Breeding services are usually established by the price of a pup.

How to select a puppy.

Selecting the pup is usually pretty easy for you.
Make a list of the things you would like to see in your pup:
eg.
A laid back temperament, or an aggressive temperament.
A large dog, or a small dog.
A male or a female.

Tell your breeder what you are planning to use the pup for and then ask them which pup would best suit you.  Your breeder should know the pups personalities after spending time with them everyday and is far better suited to match you with a puppy, than the likely hood that you would be able to pick out a pup in a few minutes of watching them.

It's that easy.

 

Male Vs. Female 
It is a misconception that females make better pets than males or vice versa.  All puppies are individuals and all puppies can be difficult or easy to get along with depending on their breeding.
Advantages of the female:  Smaller, so if you do a lot of traveling with limited space they are easier to cart around.  
Advantages of the male: Are often nicer looking than the females, are usually bigger, if you are looking for a big dog.  Are usually more fun loving and happy go lucky in nature.  Are often more silly and comical in nature.  When neutered are the ideal stable, loving, people oriented family member or companion.

Naming your puppy: Here are some ideas for your new pup.

A:
Abby, Abe, Ace, Ada, Akela, Akia, Akira, Akya, Alex, Alonzo, Alf, 
Amber, Amigo, Amos,
Andy, Angel, Arrow, Ashley, Azura
B:
Babe, Baron, Bailey, Bambi
Baxter, Bear, Bella,
Benson, Bentley, BigBoy, Bingo,
Bravo, Brice, Brie, Brier, Bubbles, Buddy, Bunny
Bull, Buster
C:
Cadence, Cady, Cala,
Cameo, Candy, Captain,
Cara, Carlin, Carmel,
Casia, Cassidy, Cato,
Cerise, Chanel, Charis,
Champ, Chelsea, Cleo
Cora, Coal,
D:
Daisy, Dakota, Dalia
Dante, Daphne, Daron,
Daytona,
Dee, Della, Delta, Deva
Dexter, Domino, Dora
Doria, Drake, Drew,
Droopy, Duchess,
Duke, Durango, Dusty
E:
Ebony, Echo, Eddy,
Edgar, Effie, Einstein,
Electra, Eliora, Elysia
Emiline, Eskimo,
Espresso, Eureka, Ewok
F:
Faith, Fajita, Falcon
Fang, Farley, Farnham
Felix, Ferdinand, Fido
Fifi, Figaro, Finnegan
Fiona, Fletch, Flopsy, Foxy
Frankie, Freckles
Fred, Freddy, Friday, Frito, Fritzi
G:
Garfield, Gatsby, 
Georgie, Gigi, Ginger
Giselle, Gitta, Golda,
Goldie, Goober, Goose
Grace, Gumbo
H:
Halley, Hamlet, Hana
Hannah, Happy, Harpo
Hardy, Hayley, Hershey, Hobo, Holly
Homer, Honey, Hooch
Hope
I:
Iceman, Igloo, Igor
Indie, Indigo, Inez, Inky
Iris, Isa, Ivory, Ivy
J:
Jacinda, Jackie, Jade
Jaffa,  Jag, Jamila,
Jasmine, Jasper, Java
Jazzy, Jeeter, Jelina
Jello, Jelly Bean, Jenni
Jethro, Jesse, Jessie, Jette, Jewel
Jill, Joby, Joker, Joy
June, Juni, Junior
Juno
K:
Kadenza, Kaiser, Kala
Kalliope, Kallista,
Kamilah, Kamilla, Kara
Karima, Kasmira, Kelia, Kendra, Kerensa, Kezia, Kiana, Kiki, Kineta
Kitty, Kiwi, Kizzi
Kobi, Koko, Kosmo
Kyra
L:
Lacey, Ladonna, Lady
Laila, Lakeisha, Lallie
Lana, Lane, Lani, Lassie, Lee, Leeza
Leo, Lex, Link,
Linus, Lizzie, Lotus
Lucky
M:
Mack, Maggie, Marina, Maris
Marmaduke, Marvin, Mattie, Marty
Matisse, Max, Maud
Mel, Mia, Milo, Mitch, Mindy, Misha, Missy, Misty
Mitsy, Moby
N:
Ned, Neon, Nellie, Nessie, Newton, Niko, Ninja, Nita, Nitro, Noodle, Novia, Nugget, Nyx
O:
Odie, Oliana, Oliver, Onyx, Oreo, Oscar, Otis
Ozzie
P:

Pablo, Page, Palmer, Pansy, Paris, Parker, Parson, Pascal, Paxton, Peaches, Peanut, Pebbles, Penny, Perkins
Peyton, Picaso, Pickles,
Pierce, Piper, Pookie
Poquito, Precious, Presley, Primo, Prince
Princess, Proctor, Puck
Q:
Quicksilver, Quigley, Quincy
R:
Radley, Rafael, Ragdoll
Ragnar, Raider, Raisin,
Ranger, Raskal, Ravi
Rebel, Renegade, Rex
Rio, Ringo, Ripley
Rocky, Rowdy, Ruby, Rudy
S:
Saber, Sammy, Scamper
Scarlet, Scoobie, Scrappy
Shilo, Shogun, Sidney
Skipper, Skippy, Skittles
Sonny, Sparky, Spike
Spuds, Squirt, Sugar
T:
Tank, Tango, Tara, Tarzan, Tatoo, Tess, Thumper,
Tia, Tonto, Toro, Trooper
Tulip, Turbo, Twinkie
Ty
V:
Vandy
W: Woody, Wiley, Worm,
Wrecker, Wuss, Wilber
Y: Yappy, Yousa
Z: Zeke, Zip, Zipper, Zippy, Zorro


DISCUSSION   |   LINKS   |   CONTACT   |   MB CLASSIFIEDS   |   MB HORSE WORLD